Q: What is a counter-depth refrigerator?
A: A counter-depth refrigerator measures 24” from the front to the back of the refrigerator, excluding the thickness of the door and handles. The benefit of a counter-depth refrigerator is that it is the same depth as your kitchen countertops. Most refrigerators are 30” deep and “stick out” into the kitchen, usually 8 to 10 inches past the countertops. Check your own refrigerator to see an example. A counter-depth refrigerator takes less floor space in your kitchen and often times will allow wider access in a usually high-traffic area. Another space saving idea: recess the outlet behind the refrigerator. This will give you up to three more inches of space in your kitchen. It may not sound like much, but three inches (plus the 8” to 10” of a regular depth refrigerator) can increase your floor space by up to a foot!
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Monday, August 17, 2009
Choosing a Backsplash for Your Kitchen
Q. How do I choose a backsplash for my kitchen?
A. Choosing the backsplash for the kitchen is the second-to-last decision I make when planning a kitchen design. (Paint is the last element chosen.) I use the backsplash to tie in all the other unrelated materials – cabinets, countertops, and flooring. The backsplash can make or break any kitchen design so it’s important to take your time thinking through your final decision.
When shopping with my clients, I always make “backsplash day” it’s own day because it can be very overwhelming if you don’t have a plan. First, know the style of your kitchen.
Is the kitchen modern? Then cleaner lines and the “less is more” theory is usually appropriate. Materials like glass and stainless steel are in keeping with cleaner lines. But don’t settle for the basic 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 inch sizes. Because the lines are more minimalist, here’s your chance to use the backsplash for drama and the unexpected. I love the new 5/8” x 6” “finger” tiles laid in an offset pattern in glass or stainless material. And I like to set them running vertically on the wall because horizontal is the natural tendency and I like to do the unexpected.
For more traditional kitchens, including French Country, Shabby Chic and Mediterranean, natural stone tiles look great. Tumbled marble is popular and easily accessible, but also predictable. Try different shapes and sizes to create your own unique look. Tumbled marble comes in a wide variety of colors as well, so look at a golden 3 x 6 harlequin-shaped tile with a 5/8” decorative “dot” of red marble for a beautiful look with a hint of color. (The red is minimal and will not dictate that kitchen accessories be red. It just adds a little punch to the neutral color of the gold.) I also like brick-shaped marble or limestone (1x2 or 3x6) for a traditional home, but for a twist on this idea, look at Sonoma Tile’s “Tantrum” glass tile in the 1x2 brick shape. It’s shattered glass set on a porcelain backing and comes in a variety of colors. I recently tiled a vent hood over the cooktop in this 1x2 tantrum glass tile and the result was stunning! It’s unique but not trendy and it’s always a conversation piece for guests visiting my client’s home.
There are countless ways to design your backsplash, and the colors, shapes, sizes and styles are unlimited…and can be overwhelming. But don’t settle for what’s “easy.” Here’s your chance to make your kitchen something special and uniquely “you!”
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A. Choosing the backsplash for the kitchen is the second-to-last decision I make when planning a kitchen design. (Paint is the last element chosen.) I use the backsplash to tie in all the other unrelated materials – cabinets, countertops, and flooring. The backsplash can make or break any kitchen design so it’s important to take your time thinking through your final decision.
When shopping with my clients, I always make “backsplash day” it’s own day because it can be very overwhelming if you don’t have a plan. First, know the style of your kitchen.
Is the kitchen modern? Then cleaner lines and the “less is more” theory is usually appropriate. Materials like glass and stainless steel are in keeping with cleaner lines. But don’t settle for the basic 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 inch sizes. Because the lines are more minimalist, here’s your chance to use the backsplash for drama and the unexpected. I love the new 5/8” x 6” “finger” tiles laid in an offset pattern in glass or stainless material. And I like to set them running vertically on the wall because horizontal is the natural tendency and I like to do the unexpected.
For more traditional kitchens, including French Country, Shabby Chic and Mediterranean, natural stone tiles look great. Tumbled marble is popular and easily accessible, but also predictable. Try different shapes and sizes to create your own unique look. Tumbled marble comes in a wide variety of colors as well, so look at a golden 3 x 6 harlequin-shaped tile with a 5/8” decorative “dot” of red marble for a beautiful look with a hint of color. (The red is minimal and will not dictate that kitchen accessories be red. It just adds a little punch to the neutral color of the gold.) I also like brick-shaped marble or limestone (1x2 or 3x6) for a traditional home, but for a twist on this idea, look at Sonoma Tile’s “Tantrum” glass tile in the 1x2 brick shape. It’s shattered glass set on a porcelain backing and comes in a variety of colors. I recently tiled a vent hood over the cooktop in this 1x2 tantrum glass tile and the result was stunning! It’s unique but not trendy and it’s always a conversation piece for guests visiting my client’s home.
There are countless ways to design your backsplash, and the colors, shapes, sizes and styles are unlimited…and can be overwhelming. But don’t settle for what’s “easy.” Here’s your chance to make your kitchen something special and uniquely “you!”
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Monday, August 10, 2009
Luxurious Walk-in Pantry? Beware!
Q. Why is a tall cabinet with pull-out trays better than a walk-in pantry?
A. In my experience, walk-in pantries are one of the most requested features in a new or remodeled kitchen. It's such a luxury to have a small room dedicated to storage of canned goods, pet food, small appliances and other items that we don't want cluttering up our wall cabinets and countertop space. However, so-called "walk-in pantries" can be very deceiving on paper.
Architectural plans that show a walk-in pantry are rarely as large as they seem. Like closets, the architect typically does not draw in the shelving that must go in. Subtract the 12 to 15 inches of depth for each shelf, then put that shelving on two walls of a U-shaped space, and your "walk-in" pantry can quickly become a "reach-in" pantry because there is little to no floor space to stand in.
Unless my client has a minimum of 54" across the shortest wall of the pantry, I don't recommend putting one in. Here's how I got there...54" minus 24" (12" for each shelf, assuming two walls of shelving) leaves 30" to actually stand in. Anything less than 30" gets very tight and the deeper the pantry, the more difficult it will become to maneuver in less than 30" of space with your hands full.
A great alternative is to incorporate into your cabinetry design a tall pantry with pull-out trays. An 18" wide by 24" deep tall cabinet with four pull-out trays will hold much more than a 36" wide "walk-in" pantry with a few 12" deep shelves, or even deeper shelves that hold more, but cannot be easily accessed.
You can also add as many pull-out trays as you need, and if the cabinet is pre-drilled for shelving or trays, they can be adjusted according to the height of the products you are storing. If you have large containers for dog food, you can set the bottom tray at 24" off the floor. If you have a tray for spices, the tray above it can be set at 6" to 8" from the tray below.
Another advantage of the pull-out tray system is that you will no longer be reaching over cans and bottles and boxes to access the products behind. You simply pull out the trays (I recommend full-extension glides on these trays) and you can stand to the side of the pantry to easily reach all the products in the back half of the tray.
Remember, when talking to your builder or remodeler, be sure to ask about the width of your "walk-in" pantry. If it's less than 54" wide, consider making the pantry part of your cabinetry. This will save space in your kitchen, maximize your storage space, and put the items you need closer to your preparation area.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
http://www.constructionology101.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A. In my experience, walk-in pantries are one of the most requested features in a new or remodeled kitchen. It's such a luxury to have a small room dedicated to storage of canned goods, pet food, small appliances and other items that we don't want cluttering up our wall cabinets and countertop space. However, so-called "walk-in pantries" can be very deceiving on paper.
Architectural plans that show a walk-in pantry are rarely as large as they seem. Like closets, the architect typically does not draw in the shelving that must go in. Subtract the 12 to 15 inches of depth for each shelf, then put that shelving on two walls of a U-shaped space, and your "walk-in" pantry can quickly become a "reach-in" pantry because there is little to no floor space to stand in.
Unless my client has a minimum of 54" across the shortest wall of the pantry, I don't recommend putting one in. Here's how I got there...54" minus 24" (12" for each shelf, assuming two walls of shelving) leaves 30" to actually stand in. Anything less than 30" gets very tight and the deeper the pantry, the more difficult it will become to maneuver in less than 30" of space with your hands full.
A great alternative is to incorporate into your cabinetry design a tall pantry with pull-out trays. An 18" wide by 24" deep tall cabinet with four pull-out trays will hold much more than a 36" wide "walk-in" pantry with a few 12" deep shelves, or even deeper shelves that hold more, but cannot be easily accessed.
You can also add as many pull-out trays as you need, and if the cabinet is pre-drilled for shelving or trays, they can be adjusted according to the height of the products you are storing. If you have large containers for dog food, you can set the bottom tray at 24" off the floor. If you have a tray for spices, the tray above it can be set at 6" to 8" from the tray below.
Another advantage of the pull-out tray system is that you will no longer be reaching over cans and bottles and boxes to access the products behind. You simply pull out the trays (I recommend full-extension glides on these trays) and you can stand to the side of the pantry to easily reach all the products in the back half of the tray.
Remember, when talking to your builder or remodeler, be sure to ask about the width of your "walk-in" pantry. If it's less than 54" wide, consider making the pantry part of your cabinetry. This will save space in your kitchen, maximize your storage space, and put the items you need closer to your preparation area.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
http://www.constructionology101.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Friday, August 7, 2009
Curbless Showers
What is a “curb-less” shower and why do I need one?
A curbless shower is simply that…a shower without a curb. Most people wonder how the water will stay in the shower without a curb. It’s simple. The foundation of the home below the shower floor must be busted out (yes, down to the dirt), then a new floor is poured 3 ½” to 4” below the existing foundation. Your tile expert will then rebuild the shower pan with the appropriate slope allowing the water to drain properly without spilling out onto the bathroom floor. The advantage of a curbless shower is it is ADA compliant. Should you ever break a leg and find yourself in a walker or wheelchair, or if you have elderly family members staying with you, or a guest with a disability, it is simple to enter the shower without stepping up over a curb.
If you are building a new home, discuss this option with your builder PRIOR to pouring your foundation. This will save you and your builder time and money if the floor can be poured properly the first time.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A curbless shower is simply that…a shower without a curb. Most people wonder how the water will stay in the shower without a curb. It’s simple. The foundation of the home below the shower floor must be busted out (yes, down to the dirt), then a new floor is poured 3 ½” to 4” below the existing foundation. Your tile expert will then rebuild the shower pan with the appropriate slope allowing the water to drain properly without spilling out onto the bathroom floor. The advantage of a curbless shower is it is ADA compliant. Should you ever break a leg and find yourself in a walker or wheelchair, or if you have elderly family members staying with you, or a guest with a disability, it is simple to enter the shower without stepping up over a curb.
If you are building a new home, discuss this option with your builder PRIOR to pouring your foundation. This will save you and your builder time and money if the floor can be poured properly the first time.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Free-Standing Ranges Vs. Slide-In Ranges
Q: Should I purchase a free-standing range or a drop-in (or slide-in) range? What’s the difference?
A: A free-standing range is best when you are not changing your countertop. A free-standing range will simply stand between your existing countertops. However, you will have a small gap between your range and your countertop.
A drop-in or slide-in range has a lip on the left and right side of the cooktop that extends past the range itself, allowing the range to sit on top of your countertop. This eliminates the gap between the range and countertop and thus prevents spills from dripping down the side of the range that cannot be reached for cleaning. However, using a slide-in range with an existing countertop will create a problem.
Because the range literally “slides in”, the front of the countertop will prevent the range from touching the back wall. This will create a 3” to 4” gap behind the range. With new countertops, this problem is easily resolved by telling your countertop installer to fabricate a “strip” that will cover this gap. If you have an existing countertop, this will be a much more difficult problem to resolve.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A: A free-standing range is best when you are not changing your countertop. A free-standing range will simply stand between your existing countertops. However, you will have a small gap between your range and your countertop.
A drop-in or slide-in range has a lip on the left and right side of the cooktop that extends past the range itself, allowing the range to sit on top of your countertop. This eliminates the gap between the range and countertop and thus prevents spills from dripping down the side of the range that cannot be reached for cleaning. However, using a slide-in range with an existing countertop will create a problem.
Because the range literally “slides in”, the front of the countertop will prevent the range from touching the back wall. This will create a 3” to 4” gap behind the range. With new countertops, this problem is easily resolved by telling your countertop installer to fabricate a “strip” that will cover this gap. If you have an existing countertop, this will be a much more difficult problem to resolve.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
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