Saturday, December 5, 2009

Anatomy of a Kitchen Remodel

Remodeling, no matter how much you plan, never goes exactly the way you expect it to. My "Anatomy of a Kitchen Remodel...A Photographic Documentary" is a step-by-step documentation of my latest project.

The homeowner selected a modular cabinet line and wanted a custom finish of high-gloss black lacquer. No problem. The only glitch was that the cabinets would take eight weeks from order date to delivery. We didn't want to demo the kitchen and make the homeowner live in a mess unnecessarily for eight weeks until the cabinets came, so we had to measure, design and order the new cabinets with the old cabinets still in place.

This doesn't seem like much of an issue, except that no wall is ever square in a home. Not even a new home. And the main plumbing lines were hidden in a "blind corner" of the cabinets, meaning we couldn't access, measure or see where exactly the plumbing lines were or how far off the wall they came. So the cabinets had to be ordered based on what could be seen and measured, then hope and pray for the best. This is not the ideal way to order custom cabinets that take eight weeks to produce. If I were to miscalculate my estimated measurements, it could mean wasted money for the cost of unused cabinets and ordering new cabinets, and wasted time waiting another six weeks for the new cabinets to arrive, thus putting the entire project behind schedule before we had ever really begun.

As much as I would like to tell you that everything went perfectly, it didn't. Remodeling is far from an exact science. But I can tell you that the problems we encountered were minor and, with a little creative thinking, were fairly easily resolved. The trick was to plan for the worst-case scenario and be ready for anything!

As it turned out, our plumbing was not exactly where we had hoped it would be. We had to move half of the kitchen cabinets down the wall by 6" and order a matching filler to replace the gap we now had. Luckily, very luckily, we had about 10" of wall until we met with a doorway. So even with a 6" shift, we still cleared four inches to the door frame. Again, I had considered this possibility before ordering the cabinets and knew that the plumbing would be less than 12" either way from where it attached to the sink. I had even ordered an additional 3" and 6" filler with the original order to cover my bases.

With that problem being resolved, we encountered another problem. We were short one piece of crown molding. Crown comes in 8' lengths and we were about 2' short. I usually order one extra piece of crown, but for some reason we were still short. The kitchen is all but finished, but the crown takes six weeks to produce in the custom high-gloss black lacquer finish, so we are waiting.

My "Kitchen Anatomy" is my way of helping to educate homeowners about all the minute details that inevitably pop up during a residential building or remodeling project. So keep your cool, hire a knowledgeable pre-construction consultant, and know that most hurdles you encounter can be resolved with a deep breath, some creative thinking, and patience! To see "An Anatomy of A Kitchen Remodel...A Photographic Documentation" visit www.facebook.com/renovatekate and don't forget to become a fan while you're there!

Until next time,

RenovateKate

www.renovatekate.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
www.facebook.com/renovatekate

Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Next Step

I'm a very driven person. I've been spending a lot of time lately thinking about my business and asking myself a lot of questions like...What have I accomplished so far? What direction do I go next? What are the next steps toward expanding? How can I serve more people at once?

I love my career and every day, every home, every client is a different challenge. It keeps me on my toes and makes my life interesting. But for some reason, I want more.

There's a lot of information floating around in my head about appliances, tile, countertops, safety codes and more and I'm frustrated that I'm only sharing my knowledge with one client at a time. So I find myself trying to figure out the best way to share all this knowledge and experience I have.

Do I make informational videos? A radio show? An internet television show? A published book? An e-book? All of the above?

And, of course, the next question is "Does anyone care?" I believe they do. I meet a lot of people every day and when they find out what I do, the first response I hear is "Where were you two years ago when I was building my house?" or "I wish we had known you before we began remodeling our home!" And as much as I've researched, I haven't found anyone else sharing the kind of information I want to share.

Off the top of my head I made a list of topics I could easily turn into 10 to 20 minute conversations. My list was 62 items long. I think I could come up with that many more with a little bit of thought put into it. So perhaps all this information floating around in my head will someday soon become a tangible way to make building or remodeling a home simpler. Less complicated. Less stressful. More cost-efficient. More time-efficient. More fun.

Stay tuned. Maybe my goal of world domination in the residential construction industry isn't so far fetched.

Until next time,

RenovateKate

www.renovatekate.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate

Sunday, November 22, 2009

What Is Pre-Construction Consultation?

Q. What is Pre-Construction Consultation?

A. As a pre-construction consultant (PCC), I assist home-owners with their residential building and remodeling projects. I prefer to consult with the home-owner prior to beginning the project or even hiring a contractor. A consultation before any decisions have been made allows us to find the best solutions possible before any time or money has been spent.

Residential construction projects can be one of the most stressful events a person can go through. Sadly, many divorces between spouses and lawsuits between home-owners and builders occur due to the tremendous amount of stress involved. By pre-planning the construction project, many potential problems can be preempted and resolved before they even happen.

Can you imagine showing up to your wedding and trying to make decisions about the ceremony as you are going through it? Of course not. But this is how most home-owners and builders approach a construction job.

On a new build, the architectural plans are selected, handed to the builder, and as the foundation is poured and the frame work goes up, the home-owner is hustling to select all the other materials that are going in the home or are pressured to make decisions on the fly because the builder is moving forward quickly but usually with very little communication about what's coming next. For example, the builder calls on Tuesday to say the tile will be laid on Thursday but you haven't been looking at tile. So you are now forced to drop everything, run around to every store you can think of, and try to find a tile in stock that you hopefully love. This is like trying to find a wedding dress three hours before the wedding! Why would anyone do this? But it happens on most new construction jobs.

Remodeling projects are even worse. Because the home already exists, the home-owner has even less time to prepare because the builder isn't busy framing or working on the roof. He's ready to go NOW! Typically, residential remodelers hurry to demo the home, then ask the home-owner to start shopping. You are then left living in a mess until you can make up your mind about products and materials.

Just because this is the way it's always been done doesn't mean the madness has to continue!

So how do you prepare for your construction project if you don't know what to do or how to get started? Over the next few weeks, I'll be posting lists of decisions that need to be made for each room of your home, and the lists will be in the approximate order that items need to be purchased. This will, hopefully, keep you on track, on schedule, and prevent your contractor from surprising you with a deadline for a decision you aren't prepared to make.

Most construction projects, no matter how competent the contractor/builder is, go over budget and over time. The reason for this is a lack of planning, organization and being prepared which result in expensive change orders. Again, think about the wedding scenario. Sure, you could probably pull a wedding together at the last minute, but it would undoubtedly cost you more money, more stress, and you wouldn't get what you really wanted.

The absolute best investment you can make is hiring a pre-construction consultant before you begin your project. This one investment could save you literally thousands of dollars.

New construction? Let your PCC see your architectural plans and have them point out potential areas that may not live up to your expectations (Enough wall space for furniture? Is the "walk-in" pantry as big as you think? Is your refrigerator in a corner? It shouldn't be!). For a remodel, have the PCC look at your home, tell them your plans, and have them make recommendations that you may not have thought of. Your PCC should also be able to help you come up with a budget or, if you have a budget, give you a realistic idea of how far your money will go. If you don't have a PCC in your area, contact me. I can do in-home consultations via Skype or you can send me your architectural plans and we can then meet via Skype while looking over your plans together.

Meanwhile, if you have any questions about your project, please email me at renovatekate@cox.net or twitter your questions to www.twitter.com/renovatekate.

Also coming soon...online videos that will coach you through your project, offer information about cabinets, appliances, tile, countertops, paint selection, plumbing fixtures, electrical fixtures, quick tips and lots more! Become a follower of my blog, twitter account or my website at http://www.renovatekate.com/ for announcements about the videos. They will be short, educational videos (10 to 20 minutes) packed full of relevant, informative information and will be very reasonably priced ($10 to $15). If you like them, tell your friends and family about them. If not, tell me. I value your feedback.

Hire a PCC and make sure you don't waste your valuable time or money, that your relationships stay intact, and that you get the home of your dreams.

Until next time,

RenovateKate
http://www.renovatekate.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Does my granite emit dangerous radon?

Q: Does my granite countertop emit dangerous radon?

A: I've been asked about this growing concern recently so I started doing some research. The following information is from http://www.radon.com/. I encourage you to visit this website, and do some other research on your own, but the concensus seems to be that the levels of radon that exist in granite are minimal and not harmful. It is more likely to find higher levels of radon in the soil under your home than in the products inside your home. I hope this information is helpful and will encourage you to do more research on your own.

From http://www.radon.com/...

"Recent media attention has focused on granite countertops and whether they can increase your indoor radon levels. While testing your home is always a good idea, a few clarifications are in order.

FACT - All natural products, especially stone, minerals, and sand, contain trace amounts of some radioactive elements called NORMs (Naturally Occurring Radioactive Mineral) that can produce measurable amounts of radiation and sometimes radon gas.

This includes all concrete products, clay bricks, most non-plastic plates and dishes, coal and the flyash produced in coal-fired power plants, natural gas (contains radon), phosphate fertilizers used in your garden (ALL contain potassium and small amounts of uranium and thorium), and the vegetables grown using those fertilizers. The Border Patrol often catches truck loads of marijuana because it is loaded with radiation producing potassium), all glass made using silica (even eye glasses, wine glasses, mirrors, windows, etc.), and granite too. There are thousands of items we could list. If interested, visit these links for more info:

· http://www.eoearth.org/article/Naturally-occurring_radioactive_materials_(NORM)
· http://www.world-nuclear.org/info/inf30.html

However, the key word is "measurable". As an illustration, compare the radon produced by your naturally-occurring stone surfaces, such as granite, to the heat produced by a birthday candle. Although you wouldn't be able to heat your entire kitchen using a birthday candle you can easily feel the heat if you put your hand over it. This is similar to placing a geiger counter over a tiny speck of uranium, thorium, radium, or potassium. The detector will make thousands of clicks per minute but be of little concern. If your stone surface emits a small amount of radon, as happens in most cases, it will generally be insignificant when diluted with the quantity of air in your entire home.

You are hundreds of times more likely to be at risk for radon emanating from the soil beneath your home. The US EPA states it simply in the Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction:
"In a small number of homes, the building materials (e.g., granite and certain concrete products) can give off radon, although building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves. In the United States, radon gas in soils is the principal source of elevated radon levels in homes."
I still want to test my granite surface. What should I do?
You can order an activated charcoal Complete Granite Surface Test Package on our online store."

Until next time,

RenovateKate
http://www.renovatekate.com/
renovatekate@cox.net

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

What is a counter-depth refrigerator?

Q: What is a counter-depth refrigerator?

A: A counter-depth refrigerator measures 24” from the front to the back of the refrigerator, excluding the thickness of the door and handles. The benefit of a counter-depth refrigerator is that it is the same depth as your kitchen countertops. Most refrigerators are 30” deep and “stick out” into the kitchen, usually 8 to 10 inches past the countertops. Check your own refrigerator to see an example. A counter-depth refrigerator takes less floor space in your kitchen and often times will allow wider access in a usually high-traffic area. Another space saving idea: recess the outlet behind the refrigerator. This will give you up to three more inches of space in your kitchen. It may not sound like much, but three inches (plus the 8” to 10” of a regular depth refrigerator) can increase your floor space by up to a foot!

Until next time,

Renovate Kate

www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate



Monday, August 17, 2009

Choosing a Backsplash for Your Kitchen

Q. How do I choose a backsplash for my kitchen?

A. Choosing the backsplash for the kitchen is the second-to-last decision I make when planning a kitchen design. (Paint is the last element chosen.) I use the backsplash to tie in all the other unrelated materials – cabinets, countertops, and flooring. The backsplash can make or break any kitchen design so it’s important to take your time thinking through your final decision.

When shopping with my clients, I always make “backsplash day” it’s own day because it can be very overwhelming if you don’t have a plan. First, know the style of your kitchen.

Is the kitchen modern? Then cleaner lines and the “less is more” theory is usually appropriate. Materials like glass and stainless steel are in keeping with cleaner lines. But don’t settle for the basic 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 inch sizes. Because the lines are more minimalist, here’s your chance to use the backsplash for drama and the unexpected. I love the new 5/8” x 6” “finger” tiles laid in an offset pattern in glass or stainless material. And I like to set them running vertically on the wall because horizontal is the natural tendency and I like to do the unexpected.

For more traditional kitchens, including French Country, Shabby Chic and Mediterranean, natural stone tiles look great. Tumbled marble is popular and easily accessible, but also predictable. Try different shapes and sizes to create your own unique look. Tumbled marble comes in a wide variety of colors as well, so look at a golden 3 x 6 harlequin-shaped tile with a 5/8” decorative “dot” of red marble for a beautiful look with a hint of color. (The red is minimal and will not dictate that kitchen accessories be red. It just adds a little punch to the neutral color of the gold.) I also like brick-shaped marble or limestone (1x2 or 3x6) for a traditional home, but for a twist on this idea, look at Sonoma Tile’s “Tantrum” glass tile in the 1x2 brick shape. It’s shattered glass set on a porcelain backing and comes in a variety of colors. I recently tiled a vent hood over the cooktop in this 1x2 tantrum glass tile and the result was stunning! It’s unique but not trendy and it’s always a conversation piece for guests visiting my client’s home.

There are countless ways to design your backsplash, and the colors, shapes, sizes and styles are unlimited…and can be overwhelming. But don’t settle for what’s “easy.” Here’s your chance to make your kitchen something special and uniquely “you!”
Until next time,

Renovate Kate

www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate

Monday, August 10, 2009

Luxurious Walk-in Pantry? Beware!

Q. Why is a tall cabinet with pull-out trays better than a walk-in pantry?

A. In my experience, walk-in pantries are one of the most requested features in a new or remodeled kitchen. It's such a luxury to have a small room dedicated to storage of canned goods, pet food, small appliances and other items that we don't want cluttering up our wall cabinets and countertop space. However, so-called "walk-in pantries" can be very deceiving on paper.

Architectural plans that show a walk-in pantry are rarely as large as they seem. Like closets, the architect typically does not draw in the shelving that must go in. Subtract the 12 to 15 inches of depth for each shelf, then put that shelving on two walls of a U-shaped space, and your "walk-in" pantry can quickly become a "reach-in" pantry because there is little to no floor space to stand in.

Unless my client has a minimum of 54" across the shortest wall of the pantry, I don't recommend putting one in. Here's how I got there...54" minus 24" (12" for each shelf, assuming two walls of shelving) leaves 30" to actually stand in. Anything less than 30" gets very tight and the deeper the pantry, the more difficult it will become to maneuver in less than 30" of space with your hands full.

A great alternative is to incorporate into your cabinetry design a tall pantry with pull-out trays. An 18" wide by 24" deep tall cabinet with four pull-out trays will hold much more than a 36" wide "walk-in" pantry with a few 12" deep shelves, or even deeper shelves that hold more, but cannot be easily accessed.

You can also add as many pull-out trays as you need, and if the cabinet is pre-drilled for shelving or trays, they can be adjusted according to the height of the products you are storing. If you have large containers for dog food, you can set the bottom tray at 24" off the floor. If you have a tray for spices, the tray above it can be set at 6" to 8" from the tray below.


Another advantage of the pull-out tray system is that you will no longer be reaching over cans and bottles and boxes to access the products behind. You simply pull out the trays (I recommend full-extension glides on these trays) and you can stand to the side of the pantry to easily reach all the products in the back half of the tray.

Remember, when talking to your builder or remodeler, be sure to ask about the width of your "walk-in" pantry. If it's less than 54" wide, consider making the pantry part of your cabinetry. This will save space in your kitchen, maximize your storage space, and put the items you need closer to your preparation area.


Until next time,

Renovate Kate

http://www.constructionology101.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate