Q: Does my granite countertop emit dangerous radon?
A: I've been asked about this growing concern recently so I started doing some research. The following information is from http://www.radon.com/. I encourage you to visit this website, and do some other research on your own, but the concensus seems to be that the levels of radon that exist in granite are minimal and not harmful. It is more likely to find higher levels of radon in the soil under your home than in the products inside your home. I hope this information is helpful and will encourage you to do more research on your own.
From http://www.radon.com/...
"Recent media attention has focused on granite countertops and whether they can increase your indoor radon levels. While testing your home is always a good idea, a few clarifications are in order.
FACT - All natural products, especially stone, minerals, and sand, contain trace amounts of some radioactive elements called NORMs (Naturally Occurring Radioactive Mineral) that can produce measurable amounts of radiation and sometimes radon gas.
This includes all concrete products, clay bricks, most non-plastic plates and dishes, coal and the flyash produced in coal-fired power plants, natural gas (contains radon), phosphate fertilizers used in your garden (ALL contain potassium and small amounts of uranium and thorium), and the vegetables grown using those fertilizers. The Border Patrol often catches truck loads of marijuana because it is loaded with radiation producing potassium), all glass made using silica (even eye glasses, wine glasses, mirrors, windows, etc.), and granite too. There are thousands of items we could list. If interested, visit these links for more info:
· http://www.eoearth.org/article/Naturally-occurring_radioactive_materials_(NORM)
· http://www.world-nuclear.org/info/inf30.html
However, the key word is "measurable". As an illustration, compare the radon produced by your naturally-occurring stone surfaces, such as granite, to the heat produced by a birthday candle. Although you wouldn't be able to heat your entire kitchen using a birthday candle you can easily feel the heat if you put your hand over it. This is similar to placing a geiger counter over a tiny speck of uranium, thorium, radium, or potassium. The detector will make thousands of clicks per minute but be of little concern. If your stone surface emits a small amount of radon, as happens in most cases, it will generally be insignificant when diluted with the quantity of air in your entire home.
You are hundreds of times more likely to be at risk for radon emanating from the soil beneath your home. The US EPA states it simply in the Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction:
"In a small number of homes, the building materials (e.g., granite and certain concrete products) can give off radon, although building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves. In the United States, radon gas in soils is the principal source of elevated radon levels in homes."
I still want to test my granite surface. What should I do?
You can order an activated charcoal Complete Granite Surface Test Package on our online store."
Until next time,
RenovateKate
http://www.renovatekate.com/
renovatekate@cox.net
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
What is a counter-depth refrigerator?
Q: What is a counter-depth refrigerator?
A: A counter-depth refrigerator measures 24” from the front to the back of the refrigerator, excluding the thickness of the door and handles. The benefit of a counter-depth refrigerator is that it is the same depth as your kitchen countertops. Most refrigerators are 30” deep and “stick out” into the kitchen, usually 8 to 10 inches past the countertops. Check your own refrigerator to see an example. A counter-depth refrigerator takes less floor space in your kitchen and often times will allow wider access in a usually high-traffic area. Another space saving idea: recess the outlet behind the refrigerator. This will give you up to three more inches of space in your kitchen. It may not sound like much, but three inches (plus the 8” to 10” of a regular depth refrigerator) can increase your floor space by up to a foot!
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A: A counter-depth refrigerator measures 24” from the front to the back of the refrigerator, excluding the thickness of the door and handles. The benefit of a counter-depth refrigerator is that it is the same depth as your kitchen countertops. Most refrigerators are 30” deep and “stick out” into the kitchen, usually 8 to 10 inches past the countertops. Check your own refrigerator to see an example. A counter-depth refrigerator takes less floor space in your kitchen and often times will allow wider access in a usually high-traffic area. Another space saving idea: recess the outlet behind the refrigerator. This will give you up to three more inches of space in your kitchen. It may not sound like much, but three inches (plus the 8” to 10” of a regular depth refrigerator) can increase your floor space by up to a foot!
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Monday, August 17, 2009
Choosing a Backsplash for Your Kitchen
Q. How do I choose a backsplash for my kitchen?
A. Choosing the backsplash for the kitchen is the second-to-last decision I make when planning a kitchen design. (Paint is the last element chosen.) I use the backsplash to tie in all the other unrelated materials – cabinets, countertops, and flooring. The backsplash can make or break any kitchen design so it’s important to take your time thinking through your final decision.
When shopping with my clients, I always make “backsplash day” it’s own day because it can be very overwhelming if you don’t have a plan. First, know the style of your kitchen.
Is the kitchen modern? Then cleaner lines and the “less is more” theory is usually appropriate. Materials like glass and stainless steel are in keeping with cleaner lines. But don’t settle for the basic 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 inch sizes. Because the lines are more minimalist, here’s your chance to use the backsplash for drama and the unexpected. I love the new 5/8” x 6” “finger” tiles laid in an offset pattern in glass or stainless material. And I like to set them running vertically on the wall because horizontal is the natural tendency and I like to do the unexpected.
For more traditional kitchens, including French Country, Shabby Chic and Mediterranean, natural stone tiles look great. Tumbled marble is popular and easily accessible, but also predictable. Try different shapes and sizes to create your own unique look. Tumbled marble comes in a wide variety of colors as well, so look at a golden 3 x 6 harlequin-shaped tile with a 5/8” decorative “dot” of red marble for a beautiful look with a hint of color. (The red is minimal and will not dictate that kitchen accessories be red. It just adds a little punch to the neutral color of the gold.) I also like brick-shaped marble or limestone (1x2 or 3x6) for a traditional home, but for a twist on this idea, look at Sonoma Tile’s “Tantrum” glass tile in the 1x2 brick shape. It’s shattered glass set on a porcelain backing and comes in a variety of colors. I recently tiled a vent hood over the cooktop in this 1x2 tantrum glass tile and the result was stunning! It’s unique but not trendy and it’s always a conversation piece for guests visiting my client’s home.
There are countless ways to design your backsplash, and the colors, shapes, sizes and styles are unlimited…and can be overwhelming. But don’t settle for what’s “easy.” Here’s your chance to make your kitchen something special and uniquely “you!”
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A. Choosing the backsplash for the kitchen is the second-to-last decision I make when planning a kitchen design. (Paint is the last element chosen.) I use the backsplash to tie in all the other unrelated materials – cabinets, countertops, and flooring. The backsplash can make or break any kitchen design so it’s important to take your time thinking through your final decision.
When shopping with my clients, I always make “backsplash day” it’s own day because it can be very overwhelming if you don’t have a plan. First, know the style of your kitchen.
Is the kitchen modern? Then cleaner lines and the “less is more” theory is usually appropriate. Materials like glass and stainless steel are in keeping with cleaner lines. But don’t settle for the basic 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 inch sizes. Because the lines are more minimalist, here’s your chance to use the backsplash for drama and the unexpected. I love the new 5/8” x 6” “finger” tiles laid in an offset pattern in glass or stainless material. And I like to set them running vertically on the wall because horizontal is the natural tendency and I like to do the unexpected.
For more traditional kitchens, including French Country, Shabby Chic and Mediterranean, natural stone tiles look great. Tumbled marble is popular and easily accessible, but also predictable. Try different shapes and sizes to create your own unique look. Tumbled marble comes in a wide variety of colors as well, so look at a golden 3 x 6 harlequin-shaped tile with a 5/8” decorative “dot” of red marble for a beautiful look with a hint of color. (The red is minimal and will not dictate that kitchen accessories be red. It just adds a little punch to the neutral color of the gold.) I also like brick-shaped marble or limestone (1x2 or 3x6) for a traditional home, but for a twist on this idea, look at Sonoma Tile’s “Tantrum” glass tile in the 1x2 brick shape. It’s shattered glass set on a porcelain backing and comes in a variety of colors. I recently tiled a vent hood over the cooktop in this 1x2 tantrum glass tile and the result was stunning! It’s unique but not trendy and it’s always a conversation piece for guests visiting my client’s home.
There are countless ways to design your backsplash, and the colors, shapes, sizes and styles are unlimited…and can be overwhelming. But don’t settle for what’s “easy.” Here’s your chance to make your kitchen something special and uniquely “you!”
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Monday, August 10, 2009
Luxurious Walk-in Pantry? Beware!
Q. Why is a tall cabinet with pull-out trays better than a walk-in pantry?
A. In my experience, walk-in pantries are one of the most requested features in a new or remodeled kitchen. It's such a luxury to have a small room dedicated to storage of canned goods, pet food, small appliances and other items that we don't want cluttering up our wall cabinets and countertop space. However, so-called "walk-in pantries" can be very deceiving on paper.
Architectural plans that show a walk-in pantry are rarely as large as they seem. Like closets, the architect typically does not draw in the shelving that must go in. Subtract the 12 to 15 inches of depth for each shelf, then put that shelving on two walls of a U-shaped space, and your "walk-in" pantry can quickly become a "reach-in" pantry because there is little to no floor space to stand in.
Unless my client has a minimum of 54" across the shortest wall of the pantry, I don't recommend putting one in. Here's how I got there...54" minus 24" (12" for each shelf, assuming two walls of shelving) leaves 30" to actually stand in. Anything less than 30" gets very tight and the deeper the pantry, the more difficult it will become to maneuver in less than 30" of space with your hands full.
A great alternative is to incorporate into your cabinetry design a tall pantry with pull-out trays. An 18" wide by 24" deep tall cabinet with four pull-out trays will hold much more than a 36" wide "walk-in" pantry with a few 12" deep shelves, or even deeper shelves that hold more, but cannot be easily accessed.
You can also add as many pull-out trays as you need, and if the cabinet is pre-drilled for shelving or trays, they can be adjusted according to the height of the products you are storing. If you have large containers for dog food, you can set the bottom tray at 24" off the floor. If you have a tray for spices, the tray above it can be set at 6" to 8" from the tray below.
Another advantage of the pull-out tray system is that you will no longer be reaching over cans and bottles and boxes to access the products behind. You simply pull out the trays (I recommend full-extension glides on these trays) and you can stand to the side of the pantry to easily reach all the products in the back half of the tray.
Remember, when talking to your builder or remodeler, be sure to ask about the width of your "walk-in" pantry. If it's less than 54" wide, consider making the pantry part of your cabinetry. This will save space in your kitchen, maximize your storage space, and put the items you need closer to your preparation area.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
http://www.constructionology101.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A. In my experience, walk-in pantries are one of the most requested features in a new or remodeled kitchen. It's such a luxury to have a small room dedicated to storage of canned goods, pet food, small appliances and other items that we don't want cluttering up our wall cabinets and countertop space. However, so-called "walk-in pantries" can be very deceiving on paper.
Architectural plans that show a walk-in pantry are rarely as large as they seem. Like closets, the architect typically does not draw in the shelving that must go in. Subtract the 12 to 15 inches of depth for each shelf, then put that shelving on two walls of a U-shaped space, and your "walk-in" pantry can quickly become a "reach-in" pantry because there is little to no floor space to stand in.
Unless my client has a minimum of 54" across the shortest wall of the pantry, I don't recommend putting one in. Here's how I got there...54" minus 24" (12" for each shelf, assuming two walls of shelving) leaves 30" to actually stand in. Anything less than 30" gets very tight and the deeper the pantry, the more difficult it will become to maneuver in less than 30" of space with your hands full.
A great alternative is to incorporate into your cabinetry design a tall pantry with pull-out trays. An 18" wide by 24" deep tall cabinet with four pull-out trays will hold much more than a 36" wide "walk-in" pantry with a few 12" deep shelves, or even deeper shelves that hold more, but cannot be easily accessed.
You can also add as many pull-out trays as you need, and if the cabinet is pre-drilled for shelving or trays, they can be adjusted according to the height of the products you are storing. If you have large containers for dog food, you can set the bottom tray at 24" off the floor. If you have a tray for spices, the tray above it can be set at 6" to 8" from the tray below.
Another advantage of the pull-out tray system is that you will no longer be reaching over cans and bottles and boxes to access the products behind. You simply pull out the trays (I recommend full-extension glides on these trays) and you can stand to the side of the pantry to easily reach all the products in the back half of the tray.
Remember, when talking to your builder or remodeler, be sure to ask about the width of your "walk-in" pantry. If it's less than 54" wide, consider making the pantry part of your cabinetry. This will save space in your kitchen, maximize your storage space, and put the items you need closer to your preparation area.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
http://www.constructionology101.com/
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Friday, August 7, 2009
Curbless Showers
What is a “curb-less” shower and why do I need one?
A curbless shower is simply that…a shower without a curb. Most people wonder how the water will stay in the shower without a curb. It’s simple. The foundation of the home below the shower floor must be busted out (yes, down to the dirt), then a new floor is poured 3 ½” to 4” below the existing foundation. Your tile expert will then rebuild the shower pan with the appropriate slope allowing the water to drain properly without spilling out onto the bathroom floor. The advantage of a curbless shower is it is ADA compliant. Should you ever break a leg and find yourself in a walker or wheelchair, or if you have elderly family members staying with you, or a guest with a disability, it is simple to enter the shower without stepping up over a curb.
If you are building a new home, discuss this option with your builder PRIOR to pouring your foundation. This will save you and your builder time and money if the floor can be poured properly the first time.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A curbless shower is simply that…a shower without a curb. Most people wonder how the water will stay in the shower without a curb. It’s simple. The foundation of the home below the shower floor must be busted out (yes, down to the dirt), then a new floor is poured 3 ½” to 4” below the existing foundation. Your tile expert will then rebuild the shower pan with the appropriate slope allowing the water to drain properly without spilling out onto the bathroom floor. The advantage of a curbless shower is it is ADA compliant. Should you ever break a leg and find yourself in a walker or wheelchair, or if you have elderly family members staying with you, or a guest with a disability, it is simple to enter the shower without stepping up over a curb.
If you are building a new home, discuss this option with your builder PRIOR to pouring your foundation. This will save you and your builder time and money if the floor can be poured properly the first time.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Free-Standing Ranges Vs. Slide-In Ranges
Q: Should I purchase a free-standing range or a drop-in (or slide-in) range? What’s the difference?
A: A free-standing range is best when you are not changing your countertop. A free-standing range will simply stand between your existing countertops. However, you will have a small gap between your range and your countertop.
A drop-in or slide-in range has a lip on the left and right side of the cooktop that extends past the range itself, allowing the range to sit on top of your countertop. This eliminates the gap between the range and countertop and thus prevents spills from dripping down the side of the range that cannot be reached for cleaning. However, using a slide-in range with an existing countertop will create a problem.
Because the range literally “slides in”, the front of the countertop will prevent the range from touching the back wall. This will create a 3” to 4” gap behind the range. With new countertops, this problem is easily resolved by telling your countertop installer to fabricate a “strip” that will cover this gap. If you have an existing countertop, this will be a much more difficult problem to resolve.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A: A free-standing range is best when you are not changing your countertop. A free-standing range will simply stand between your existing countertops. However, you will have a small gap between your range and your countertop.
A drop-in or slide-in range has a lip on the left and right side of the cooktop that extends past the range itself, allowing the range to sit on top of your countertop. This eliminates the gap between the range and countertop and thus prevents spills from dripping down the side of the range that cannot be reached for cleaning. However, using a slide-in range with an existing countertop will create a problem.
Because the range literally “slides in”, the front of the countertop will prevent the range from touching the back wall. This will create a 3” to 4” gap behind the range. With new countertops, this problem is easily resolved by telling your countertop installer to fabricate a “strip” that will cover this gap. If you have an existing countertop, this will be a much more difficult problem to resolve.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Before You Do Anything Else, Select Your Shower Head
Q. What is the first item I should select for my new bathroom?
A. Surprisingly enough, it’s not the cabinets, the tile, or the countertops. It’s the shower head! Deciding if you want a single shower head, a stationary head plus a hand-held, body jets, a rain head, or a combination is very important because your decision will determine the VALVE that you need. The valve is the VERY FIRST THING the plumber will install after the bathroom is taken apart. The valve goes in with the rough-in plumbing…before the concrete board, before the tile, before anything else. Once the valve goes in and the shower is tiled, it is too late to decide on your shower head options (unless you want to tear out the tile and start over!!). So decide on your shower heads and body jets, then tell your plumbing expert. They will then know which valve you need to purchase.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
A. Surprisingly enough, it’s not the cabinets, the tile, or the countertops. It’s the shower head! Deciding if you want a single shower head, a stationary head plus a hand-held, body jets, a rain head, or a combination is very important because your decision will determine the VALVE that you need. The valve is the VERY FIRST THING the plumber will install after the bathroom is taken apart. The valve goes in with the rough-in plumbing…before the concrete board, before the tile, before anything else. Once the valve goes in and the shower is tiled, it is too late to decide on your shower head options (unless you want to tear out the tile and start over!!). So decide on your shower heads and body jets, then tell your plumbing expert. They will then know which valve you need to purchase.
Until next time,
Renovate Kate
www.constructionology101.com
www.twitter.com/renovatekate
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